tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-39812919164299335402024-03-05T16:30:25.550+07:00Electronic Circuits PortalKumpulan Rangkaian Elektronik -
Serba-serbi Elektronika, skema rangkaian, dan hobbyadminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02551086822723681748noreply@blogger.comBlogger12125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3981291916429933540.post-18487600200945117452009-08-09T21:27:00.002+07:002009-08-09T21:44:44.466+07:00Table Lamp Circuit by IC 555<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE-fAf9KVSvn1X47p4CnyJZgRZPHm4-iaLsTUuIuhDFHluFmFIN9_9c77UxN0aQDlpoQjgXwdph_D-94L6G3-D77Zwf888S7ZeZ33zHEFVMQoqMK7uHhyAeR1l88vTh55DSYuDuCqP0KM/s1600-h/table-lamp-circuit-by-ic-555+copy.jpg"><img style="TEXT-ALIGN: center; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; DISPLAY: block; HEIGHT: 155px; CURSOR: hand" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5367974950867551634" border="0" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhE-fAf9KVSvn1X47p4CnyJZgRZPHm4-iaLsTUuIuhDFHluFmFIN9_9c77UxN0aQDlpoQjgXwdph_D-94L6G3-D77Zwf888S7ZeZ33zHEFVMQoqMK7uHhyAeR1l88vTh55DSYuDuCqP0KM/s320/table-lamp-circuit-by-ic-555+copy.jpg" /></a><br /><div>If you want a Power Lamp Flasher at normal electric power, try out Table Lamp Circuit like this is. It uses the integrated circuit NE555 as the core component. It controls the blink rate of the lamp. Use the power transistor for about 20W or current 1.6A. The Q3 can be replaced by TIP41 or H1061 or MJ3055 or 2N3055 .</div><br /><div></div>adminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02551086822723681748noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3981291916429933540.post-6190010374013427112009-05-03T19:37:00.002+07:002009-05-03T22:58:42.065+07:00Inverter DC to AC<p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px;" align="justify"> <span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Sometime we go to camping, fishing and make some out door activity that need electricity, then we can overcome this problem by using gasoline or diesel generator sets. It is all right if we can handle this equipment. But if its weight is a problem too, then we need light AC power supply. A light AC power supply is realized by DC to AC inverter.</span></p> <p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px;" align="justify"> </p> <p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px;" align="justify"> <span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px;" align="justify"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >Basically, DC to AC inverter work by using control circuit to generate electric pulse at high power (typically at hundred to thousand watts) and then this high power pulse is connected to step up transformer to get high voltage, i.e. 220 volt. For example, this control circuit can be realized using microcontroller circuit as seen at figure1. By using a microcontroller, the generated pulse can be formed in modified sine wave by using pulse width modulation technique. We can built simple inverter using unstable multivibrator as be explained in <b> <a href="http://sirkuit.blogspot.com/"><span bright="" style="">simple inverter's page</span></a></b>.</span></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px;" align="justify"><br /></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px; text-align: center;"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWMlotL6SQoQVBQccLIjKaIoYmKCnFFriR09ZIGglbNuUgh8GTIE-h6_F1aeC8G5XrznkOZlxrDxpX8Rc_nbPkt-4RR-Vrf8pGTqCJ4g2nW8QBUtP8oUoOyTxJ4OzYxUYcR6ebL1zDR5c/s1600-h/rangk_inverter.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 386px; height: 183px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWMlotL6SQoQVBQccLIjKaIoYmKCnFFriR09ZIGglbNuUgh8GTIE-h6_F1aeC8G5XrznkOZlxrDxpX8Rc_nbPkt-4RR-Vrf8pGTqCJ4g2nW8QBUtP8oUoOyTxJ4OzYxUYcR6ebL1zDR5c/s320/rangk_inverter.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331626202847056610" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px;" align="justify"><br /></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px;" align="justify"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" >In this circuit, AT89C2051 (belong to AT89 series) is used to generate pulse that is used for MOSFET IRFZ 44 driving. This mosfet switched on and off DC current to low side voltage transformer. The high voltage is generated at the other side that can turn on the lamp. To get a higher power, we can add more mosfet in parallel connection.</span></span></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px;" align="justify"><br /></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px;" align="justify"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span></span></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px;" align="justify"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsrRhfNQMdZxkxKcDyFUkaNrR_qxFRShyphenhyphen9Q2Q3mvUjpiBDShAmQ3yOGGxmZoIulPd7kL2po7tXVnZ8wdMclij9YU9TkftbTL0v_jFoB3TSVduWNX3-BX1JvVS14fHJ2k2cWrKigYGTn0/s1600-h/inverter1.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 334px; height: 184px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsrRhfNQMdZxkxKcDyFUkaNrR_qxFRShyphenhyphen9Q2Q3mvUjpiBDShAmQ3yOGGxmZoIulPd7kL2po7tXVnZ8wdMclij9YU9TkftbTL0v_jFoB3TSVduWNX3-BX1JvVS14fHJ2k2cWrKigYGTn0/s320/inverter1.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331626534753368002" border="0" /></a></p> <p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px;" align="justify"><br /></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px;" align="justify"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZqVnSHbUdWpW8bIdGlRjibi8X5WZGQ7F_1-Ibe4RuZKINBFzzqs0oGr1G3F4IZznJwtA5ctcaUQ9sRGT1b_tIKZKkCPWNiX3yX6zBN6JAJlGULPB_iRraCFeE-4qGzjxFnMlr8D-GKBw/s1600-h/inverteron.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 338px; height: 170px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiZqVnSHbUdWpW8bIdGlRjibi8X5WZGQ7F_1-Ibe4RuZKINBFzzqs0oGr1G3F4IZznJwtA5ctcaUQ9sRGT1b_tIKZKkCPWNiX3yX6zBN6JAJlGULPB_iRraCFeE-4qGzjxFnMlr8D-GKBw/s320/inverteron.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5331626534610156802" border="0" /></a></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px;" align="justify"><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsrRhfNQMdZxkxKcDyFUkaNrR_qxFRShyphenhyphen9Q2Q3mvUjpiBDShAmQ3yOGGxmZoIulPd7kL2po7tXVnZ8wdMclij9YU9TkftbTL0v_jFoB3TSVduWNX3-BX1JvVS14fHJ2k2cWrKigYGTn0/s1600-h/inverter1.jpg"><br /></a></p><p class="MsoBodyText" style="margin: 0pt 10px; text-align: center;"><span style="font-size:85%;"><span style=";font-family:Arial;font-size:85%;" ><br /></span></span></p>adminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02551086822723681748noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3981291916429933540.post-51544657713844801592009-02-12T15:00:00.005+07:002009-02-12T17:54:40.638+07:00DC to AC Inverter using 555<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 102, 255);font-size:130%;" >Inverter DC ke AC Menggunakan IC 555</span><br /><br /><br />This DC-to-AC inverter schematic produces an AC output at line frequency and voltage. The 555 is configured as a low-frequency oscillator, tunable over the frequency range of 50 to 60 Hz by Frequency potentiometer R4.<br /><br />The 555 feeds its output (amplified by Q1 and Q2) to the input of transformer T1, a reverse-connected filament transformer with the necessary step-up turns ratio. Capacitor C4 and coil L1 filter the input to T1, assuring that it is effectively a sine wave. Adjust the value of T1 to your voltage.<br /><br />The output (in watts) is up to you by selecting different components.<br /><br />Input voltage is anywhere from +5V to +15Volt DC, adjust the 2700uF cap's working voltage accordingly.<br />Replacement types for Q1 are: TIP41B, TIP41C, NTE196, ECG196, etc. Replacement types for Q2 are: TIP42B, TIP42C, NTE197, ECG197, etc. Don't be afraid to use another type of similar specs, it's only a transistor... ;-)<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Parts List:</span><br /><br />R1 = 10K<br />R2 = 100K<br />R3 = 100 ohm<br />R4 = 50K potmeter, Linear<br />C1,C2 = 0.1uF<br />C3 = 0.01uF<br />C4 = 2700uF<br />Q1 = TIP41A, NPN, or equivalent<br />Q2 = TIP42A, PNP, or equivalent<br />L1 = 1uH<br />T1 = Filament transformer, your choice<br /><br />If the whole thing is working, good. If not, relax and don't get frustrated. Do the following checks:<br /><ol><li>You have connected the filament transformer in REVERSE yes?</li><li>If not, disconnect the power and reverse. If you have, disconnect the transformer and measure the voltage after L1 and ground.</li><li>Just in case, GROUND for this circuit is same as negative (-).</li><li>Q1/Q2 are oposites, e.i. npn/pnp.</li><li>Is your 555 perhaps defective? Disconnect R3 from pin 3 and check pin 3 for a pulse.</li><li>Check your transistors to make sure they are not defective.</li></ol><span style="color:#ff0000;"><span style="font-size:85%;">Error fix: Pin 7 and 2 were reversed. Original pinout was correct.<br /><br /></span><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV0n8nYGbuITH3QbOVsh8AeeT9E7xJBbL2GOQmoltRYglkHdolWYXJvVf8qYYQHs3GY9aFdOxmX-dL88EmdBDEX0yPhV_e2Jm83faAykf3sz0nnrUITy63nS5EWpXvia2NztklKlRmwbw/s1600-h/DC_AC_Inverter_555.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 394px; height: 236px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhV0n8nYGbuITH3QbOVsh8AeeT9E7xJBbL2GOQmoltRYglkHdolWYXJvVf8qYYQHs3GY9aFdOxmX-dL88EmdBDEX0yPhV_e2Jm83faAykf3sz0nnrUITy63nS5EWpXvia2NztklKlRmwbw/s320/DC_AC_Inverter_555.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5301861145442824082" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Rangkaian Inverter DC-AC ini menghasilkan tegangan keluaran AC seperti tegangan jala-jala. IC 555 dikonfigurasikan sebagai osilator frekuensi rendah. Frekuensi bisa diubah dari 50 ke 60 Hz dengan mengubah potensiometer frekuensi R4.</span>adminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02551086822723681748noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3981291916429933540.post-27097703403844519272008-11-03T00:15:00.004+07:002009-02-08T00:29:22.543+07:00Theft preventer alarmThis circuit utilising a 555 timer IC can be used as an alarm system to prevent the theft of your luggage, burglars breaking into your house etc. The alarms goes ON when a thin wire, usually as thin as a hair is broken.<br /><br />The circuit is straightforward. It uses a 555 IC wired as an astable multivibrator to produce a tone of frequency of about 1kHz which gives out a shrill noise to scare away the burglar.<br /><br />The wire used to set off the alarm can be made of a thin copper wire like SWG 36 or higher.<br />You can even use single strands of copper form a power cable.<br /><br />The circuit operates on a wide range of voltages from 5V to 15V.<br /><br />The speaker and the circuit could be housed inside a tin can with holes drilled on the speaker side for the sound to come out.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc8-w7N0i30Ki8kpnvrRWT4mLdV0nI19wHShFvne49pwc_gMXEJtd662-Pb5Y96mqaHmTUj55eyxiBIW1CB39QLiq5h27qoURkC8oa6svFMqtGIIyNdh03AMiSqWxSRgC4MHmH_all2YM/s1600-h/burglar_alarm.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 336px; height: 336px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc8-w7N0i30Ki8kpnvrRWT4mLdV0nI19wHShFvne49pwc_gMXEJtd662-Pb5Y96mqaHmTUj55eyxiBIW1CB39QLiq5h27qoURkC8oa6svFMqtGIIyNdh03AMiSqWxSRgC4MHmH_all2YM/s320/burglar_alarm.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264110199456270162" border="0" /></a><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Rangkaian yang menggunakan IC timer 555 ini dapat digunakan sebagai alarm untuk mencegah pencuri menggondol barang-barang atau masuk ke rumah Anda. Alarm akan menyala (ON) ketika kawat tipis (biasanya setipis rambut) putus.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Rangkaian ini menggunakan IC 555 yang dikawati menjadi multivibrator yang tidak stabil untuk menghasilkan frekuensi sekitar 1 kHz yang terdengar cukup menakutkan perampok.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Kabel tipis yang dimaksudkan untuk mematikan alarm dapat dibuat dari kawat tembaga tipis seperti SWG 36 atau bisa juga serat kawat tembaga dari kabel power.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Rangkaian ini beroperasi dalam jangkauan tegangan yang cukup besar yaitu antara 5 hingga 15 V.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Speaker dan rangkaian dapat dimasukkan ke dalam kaleng dengan diberi lubang di depan speaker agar suara bisa keluar.</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhc8-w7N0i30Ki8kpnvrRWT4mLdV0nI19wHShFvne49pwc_gMXEJtd662-Pb5Y96mqaHmTUj55eyxiBIW1CB39QLiq5h27qoURkC8oa6svFMqtGIIyNdh03AMiSqWxSRgC4MHmH_all2YM/s1600-h/burglar_alarm.gif"><span style="font-size:78%;">http://www.electronic-circuits-diagrams.com/alarmsimages/alarmsckt3.shtml</span></a>adminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02551086822723681748noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3981291916429933540.post-57458457240049768092008-11-02T23:50:00.002+07:002008-11-02T23:54:55.347+07:00Infrared Head PhonesUsing this low-cost project one can reproduce audio from TV without disturbing others. It does not use any wire connection between TV and headphones. In place of a pair of wires, it uses invisible infrared light to transmit audio signals from TV to headphones. Without using any lens, a range of up to 6 metres is possible. Range can be extended by using lenses and reflectors with IR sensors comprising transmitters and receivers.<br /><br />IR transmitter uses two-stage transistor amplifier to drive two series-connected IR LEDs. An audio output transformer is used (in reverse) to couple audio output from TV to the IR transmitter. Transistors T1 and T2 amplify the audio signals received from TV through the audio transformer. Low-impedance output windings (lower gauge or thicker wires) are used for connection to TV side while high-impedance windings are connected to IR transmitter. This IR transmitter can be powered from a 9-volt mains adapter or battery. Red LED1 in transmitter circuit functions as a zener diode (0.65V) as well as supply-on indicator.<br /><br />IR receiver uses 3-stage transistor amplifier. The first two transistors (T4 and T5) form audio signal amplifier while the third transistor T6 is used to drive a headphone. Adjust potmeter VR2 for max. clarity. Direct photo-transistor towards IR LEDs of transmitter for max. range. A 9-volt battery can be used with receiver for portable operation.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPYj1JUFEU_nNXPC_5Ck1yjGL0AuUkh7sCPxOmJgepugox8T5FAASbnKXTOyo23h-mvqxowz61GA4t8UT1pXCoRWDN1QpWVGfXlJwakbGYjTe-EOP7ZWYeUVPe3mJWORqh_vHWG6gOp0A/s1600-h/infrared_headphones.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 291px; height: 382px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPYj1JUFEU_nNXPC_5Ck1yjGL0AuUkh7sCPxOmJgepugox8T5FAASbnKXTOyo23h-mvqxowz61GA4t8UT1pXCoRWDN1QpWVGfXlJwakbGYjTe-EOP7ZWYeUVPe3mJWORqh_vHWG6gOp0A/s320/infrared_headphones.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5264104589661989394" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="font-size:78%;">http://www.electronic-circuits-diagrams.com/audioimages/audiockt3.shtml</span>adminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02551086822723681748noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3981291916429933540.post-38433854270712587392008-10-31T00:29:00.001+07:002008-10-31T11:27:24.874+07:00Car Wireless AlarmLooking for wireless alarm for your car ?<br /><br />This FM radio-controlled anti- theft alarm can be used with any vehicle having 6- to 12-volt DC supply system. The mini VHF, FM transmitter is fitted in the vehicle at night when it is parked in the car porch or car park.<br /><br />The receiver unit with CXA1019, a single IC-based FM radio module, which is freely available in the market at reasonable rate, is kept inside. Receiver is tuned to the transmitter's frequency. When the transmitter is on and the signals are being received by FM radio receiver, no hissing noise is available at the output of receiver. Thus transistor T2 (BC548) does not conduct. This results in the relay driver transistor T3 getting its forward base bias via 10k resistor R5 and the relay gets energised.<br /><br />When an intruder tries to drive the car and takes it a few metres away from the car porch, the radio link between the car (transmitter) and alarm (receiver) is broken. As a result FM radio module gene-rates hissing noise. Hissing AC signals are coupled to relay switching circ- uit via audio transformer. These AC signals are rectified and filtered by diode D1 and capacitor C8, and the resulting positive DC voltage provides a forward bias to transistor T2. Thus transistor T2 conducts, and it pulls the base of relay driver transistor T3 to ground level. The relay thus gets de-activated and the alarm connected via N/C contacts of relay is switched on.<br /><br />If, by chance, the intruder finds out about the wireless alarm and disconnects the transmitter from battery, still remote alarm remains activated because in the absence of signal, the receiver continues to produce hissing noise at its output. So the burglar alarm is fool-proof and highly reliable.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Schematic</span><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgMytF5lvoMUCpaD1y52sxaHXkrqYZozZ4EwdHB7FlamwvU-31BvI-Q2wfjNVEzR8N2vwfBh5RNZKh2HPk0g75nadvY2g6dF7bOp2W6wP3mO2gIVD6kCCwk1hhsHVSTo3wQ1Wv-PgUD_s/s1600-h/CarWirelessAlarm.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 346px; height: 377px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhgMytF5lvoMUCpaD1y52sxaHXkrqYZozZ4EwdHB7FlamwvU-31BvI-Q2wfjNVEzR8N2vwfBh5RNZKh2HPk0g75nadvY2g6dF7bOp2W6wP3mO2gIVD6kCCwk1hhsHVSTo3wQ1Wv-PgUD_s/s320/CarWirelessAlarm.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5263169444882536946" border="0" /></a><br /><br />http://www.electronic-circuits-diagrams.com/alarmsimages/alarmsckt12.shtmladminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02551086822723681748noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3981291916429933540.post-19325909968799231362008-10-30T11:04:00.005+07:002009-02-08T18:35:49.317+07:0012V - 40W Fluorescent Lamp<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 102, 255);font-size:130%;" >Lampu Neon 12 V - 40 W</span><br /><br />If you don't satisfied with the <a href="http://sirkuit.blogspot.com/2008/10/12vdc-fluorescent-lamp.html">12VDC Fluorescent Lamp</a> and wanna build the larger one, you can make this.<br /><br />This 40W fluorescent lamp inverter allows you to run 40W fluorescent tubes from any 12V source capable of delivering 3A and can be used to light regular or blacklight tubes.<br /><br /><br /><h3>Schematic<br /></h3><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj936ClyVfLZ5bjIKcmPHxT11h_8EYDPEByi3uD15lPe2kb_NuYKycL4F-FAN7QnwyjHXip0WaMWwpggf2ExBpUmZ-0f6utLzXfol6cNzLU52Q9VyfPQ7TeuMkscb2Jos5Vf6LrBCkpAnE/s1600-h/40wflamp.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 254px; height: 122px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj936ClyVfLZ5bjIKcmPHxT11h_8EYDPEByi3uD15lPe2kb_NuYKycL4F-FAN7QnwyjHXip0WaMWwpggf2ExBpUmZ-0f6utLzXfol6cNzLU52Q9VyfPQ7TeuMkscb2Jos5Vf6LrBCkpAnE/s320/40wflamp.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262793947832758306" border="0" /></a><br /><h3>Parts</h3><br /><table style="width: 459px; height: 309px;" border="0" cellspacing="3"><tbody><tr><td style="color: rgb(255, 102, 0);" bg=""><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Part</span></center></b></td> <td style="color: rgb(255, 102, 0);" bg=""><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Total Qty.</span></center></b></td> <td style="color: rgb(255, 102, 0);" bg=""><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Description</span></center></b></td> <td style="color: rgb(255, 102, 0);" bg=""><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Substitutions</span></center></b></td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">R1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">180 Ohm 1W Resistor</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">R2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">47 Ohm 1/4W Resistor</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">R3</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">2.2 Ohm 1W Resistor (only needed once)</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">C1, C2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">100uF 16V Electrolytic Capacitor</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">C3</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">100nF Ceramic Disc Capacitor</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">Q1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">TIP 3055 or 2N3055 or equivalent</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">L1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">See "Notes"</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">T1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">See "Notes"</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">MISC</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">Wire, Case, Board, Heatsink For Q1, heatshrink, AM antenna rod for coil</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><h3>Notes<br /></h3><ol><li>Email <a href="mailto:the.milnes@xtra.co.nz">Bart Milnes</a> with questions, comments, etc.</li><li>Wind L1/T1. You will need an AM antenna rod that is about 60mm (2.5 inches) long to wind T1/L1 on. T1/L1 are wound on the same core. Shrink a layer of heatshrink over the core to insulate it. Leave 50mm of wire at each end of the coils.<br />Primary: Wind 60 turns of 1mm diameter enamelled copper wire on the first layer and put a layer of heatshrink over it.<br />Feedback: Wind 13 turns of 0.4mm enamelled copper wire on the core and then heatshrink over that.<br />Secondary: This coil has 450 turns of 0.4mm enamelled copper wire in three layers. Wind one layer and then heatshrink over it. Do the same for the next two.<br /><img src="http://www.aaroncake.net/Circuits/40wflamp2.gif" alt="Transformer/Inductor Winding" height="82" width="352" /></li><li>Calibrate/test the circuit. To calibrate/set up the circuit connect the 2.2 Ohm 1W resistor (R3) in series with the positive supply. Connect a 40W fluorescent tube to the high voltage ends of the transformer. Momentarily connect power. If the tube doesn't light immediately reverse the connections of L1. If the tube still doesn't work, check all connections. When you get the tube to light remove the 2.2 ohm resistor and the circuit is ready for use. You will not need R3 again.</li><li>This circuit is designed for 220V lamps. It will work with 120V units just fine, but will shorten the life of the tube.</li><li>This page has been extensively rewritten by Bart Milne. (15/3/01)</li></ol><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Jika Anda kurang puas dengan <a href="http://sirkuit.blogspot.com/2008/10/12vdc-fluorescent-lamp.html">lampu neon 12 VDC</a> dan ingin membuat yang dayanya lebih besar, Anda bisa membuat yang satu ini.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);"> Inverter lampu neon 40 W ini bisa menyalakan lampu neon 40 W hanya dengan power suplai 12 V berarus 3 A, bisa neon biasa atau neon tabung hitam.<br /><br />Catatan:<br /></span><ol><li><br /></li></ol>adminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02551086822723681748noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3981291916429933540.post-90432186434369598532008-10-30T10:35:00.007+07:002009-02-08T18:30:11.878+07:0012VDC Fluorescent Lamp<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 102, 255);font-size:130%;" >Lampu Neon 12 V DC</span><br /><br />If you are looking for Fluorescent Lamp Driver using ordinary transformer, here it is.<br />It uses a normal 120 to 6V stepdown transformer in reverse to step 12V to about 350V to drive a lamp without the need to warm the filaments.<br /><br /><br /><h3>Schematic<br /></h3><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl4uwpiTsUpGViR47LPxK24KSz8XT3_6MyglJJwkaFzEVdvlOsaYkGei-o9RQV0xbYM3b2t0hkJ6mXj-tJUVZ4Ljy7fvfAbRTJDgYjhjG1ZJoyS7a6BRM8SBepVkmDYCtQJyTJ9zLnj7k/s1600-h/flampdrv.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 161px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgl4uwpiTsUpGViR47LPxK24KSz8XT3_6MyglJJwkaFzEVdvlOsaYkGei-o9RQV0xbYM3b2t0hkJ6mXj-tJUVZ4Ljy7fvfAbRTJDgYjhjG1ZJoyS7a6BRM8SBepVkmDYCtQJyTJ9zLnj7k/s320/flampdrv.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5262789508420555330" border="0" /></a><br /><h3>Parts</h3><br /><table style="width: 431px; height: 350px;" border="0" cellspacing="3"><tbody><tr><td bg="" style="color: rgb(7, 38, 83);"><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Part</span></center></b></td> <td bg="" style="color: rgb(7, 38, 83);"><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Total Qty.</span></center></b></td> <td bg="" style="color: rgb(7, 38, 83); text-align: center;"><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Description</span></center></b></td> <td bg="" style="color: rgb(7, 38, 83);"><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Substitutions</span></center></b></td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">C1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">100uf 25V Electrolytic Capacitor</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0); text-align: center;"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">C2,C3</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">0.01uf 25V Ceramic Disc Capacitor</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">C4</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">0.01uf 1KV Ceramic Disc Capacitor</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">R1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1K 1/4W Resistor</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">R2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">2.7K 1/4W Resistor</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">Q1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">IRF510 MOSFET</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">U1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">TLC555 Timer IC</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">T1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">6V 300mA Transformer</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">LAMP</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">4W Fluorescent Lamp</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">MISC</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">Board, Wire, Heatsink For Q1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);"><br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><h3>Notes:<br /></h3><ol><li>Q1 must be installed on a heat sink.</li><li>A 240V to 10V transformer will work better then the one in the parts list. The problem is that they are hard to find.</li><li>This circuit can give a nasty (but not too dangerous) shock. Be careful around the output leads.</li></ol><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Anda mencari rangkaian lampu neon 12 V DC dengan menggunakan trafo biasa? Ini dia.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);"> Trafo yang digunakan seperti trafi biasa dengan tegangan 120 ke 6 V yang digunakan terbalik sehinggga dengan tegangan primer 12 V menghasilkan tegangan output 350 V untuk menyalakan lampu neon tanpa memanaskan filamen.<br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Catatan:</span><br /></span><ol style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);"><li>Q1 harus meenggunakan heatsink (peredam panas)</li><li>Lebih baik menggunakan trafo 240 ke 10 V, tapi masalahnya susah didapat :-)</li><li>Hati-hati dengan tegangan keluaran, bisa menyetrum!</li></ol>adminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02551086822723681748noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3981291916429933540.post-12813011663613075692007-12-11T21:21:00.004+07:002009-02-08T18:23:45.820+07:0012V to 120V Inverter<span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(51, 102, 255);font-size:130%;" >Inverter dari 12 V ke 120 V AC</span><br /><br />Have you ever wanted to run a TV, stereo or other appliance while on the road or camping?<br /><br />Well, this inverter should solve that problem. It takes 12 VDC and steps it up to 120 VAC. The wattage depends on which tansistors you use for Q1 and Q2, as well as how "big" a transformer you use for T1.<br /><br />The inverter can be constructed to supply anywhere from 1 to 1000 (1 KW) watts.<br /><br /><table border="0" cellspacing="3"><tbody><tr><td style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);" bg=""><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Part</span></center></b></td> <td style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);" bg=""><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Total Qty.</span></center></b></td> <td style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);" bg=""><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Description</span></center></b></td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">C1, C2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">68 uf, 25 V Tantalum Capacitor</td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">R1, R2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">10 Ohm, 5 Watt Resistor</td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">R3, R4</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">180 Ohm, 1 Watt Resistor</td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">D1, D2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">HEP 154 Silicon Diode</td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">Q1, Q2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">2</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">2N3055 NPN Transistor (see "Notes")</td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">T1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">24V, Center Tapped Transformer (see "Notes")</td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">MISC</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">1</td><td style="color: rgb(255, 255, 0);">Wire, Case, Receptical (For Output)</td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><h3>Notes</h3> <ol><li>Q1 and Q2, as well as T1, determine how much wattage the inverter can supply. With Q1,Q2=2N3055 and T1= 15 A, the inverter can supply about 300 watts. Larger transformers and more powerful transistors can be substituted for T1, Q1 and Q2 for more power.</li><li>The easiest and least expensive way to get a large T1 is to re-wind an old microwave transformer. These transformers are rated at about 1KW and are perfect. Go to a local TV repair shop and dig through the dumpster until you get the largest microwave you can find. The bigger the microwave the bigger transformer. Remove the transformer, being careful not to touch the large high voltage capacitor that might still be charged. If you want, you can test the transformer, but they are usually still good. Now, remove the old 2000 V secondary, being careful not to damage the primary. Leave the primary in tact. Now, wind on 12 turns of wire, twist a loop (center tap), and wind on 12 more turns. The guage of the wire will depend on how much current you plan to have the transformer supply. Enamel covered magnet wire works great for this. Now secure the windings with tape. Thats all there is to it. Remember to use high current transistors for Q1 and Q2. The 2N3055's in the parts list can only handle 15 amps each.</li><li>Remember, when operating at high wattages, this circuit draws huge amounts of current. Don't let your battery go dead :-).</li><li>Since this project produces 120 VAC, you must include a fuse and build the project in a case.</li><li>You <b>must</b> use tantalum capacitors for C1 and C2. Regular electrolytics will overheat and explode. And yes, 68uF is the correct value. There are no substitutions.</li><li>This circuit can be tricky to get going. Differences in transformers, transistors, parts substitutions or anything else not on this page may cause it to not function.</li><li>If you want to make 220/240 VAC instead of 120 VAC, you need a transformer with a 220/240 primary (used as the secondary in this circuit as the transformer is backwards) instead of the 120V unit specified here. The rest of the circuit stays the same. But it takes twice the current at 12V to produce 240V as it does 120V. </li><li>Check out this forum topic to answer many of the most commonly asked questions about this circuit: <a href="http://www.aaroncake.net/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2996&CAT_ID=10&FORUM_ID=18&Forum_Title=Power+Supply&Topic_Title=12%2F120V+inverter+again">12 - 120V Inverter Again</a>. It covers the most common problems encountered and has some helpful suggestions.</li></ol><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1ubRgGGM5v8goqgb5CAFPnhP3ErJvev8a9HLuLgIj6rDDYlkgiF0puhJ9wwhHIllNrr7FIH5aOcylkpezFrwUnVDE862PkzquZyqPBzV3dgty9dZ_HP7twjeNklObOhL4pTs7HWzAUY/s1600-h/inverter.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJ1ubRgGGM5v8goqgb5CAFPnhP3ErJvev8a9HLuLgIj6rDDYlkgiF0puhJ9wwhHIllNrr7FIH5aOcylkpezFrwUnVDE862PkzquZyqPBzV3dgty9dZ_HP7twjeNklObOhL4pTs7HWzAUY/s320/inverter.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5142724311583355090" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Pernahkah Anda menginginkan menghidupkan TV, stereo, atau peralatan lainnya ketika di perjalanan atau wisata?</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Kalau ya, berarti inverter yang ditampilkan di sini bisa menolong Anda. Inverter ini hanya perlu tegangan 12 V DC untuk kemudian diubah menjadi 120 V AC. Besar dayanya (watt) tergantung pada transistor yang Anda gunakan untuk Q1 dan Q2, juga pada berapa besar kapasitas trafo T1. </span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Inverter ini dibuat untuk melayani beban 1 sampai 1000 watt (1kW).</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Catatan:</span><br /><br /><ol style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);"><li>Q1 dan Q2, juga T1 menentukan besar daya yang dapat disuplai oleh inverter ini. Dengan Q1, Q2 = 2N3055 dan T1= 15A, inverter ini mampu menyuplai sekitar 300 watt. Untuk meningkatkan daya perlu diganti dengan trafo yang lebih besar lagi ditambah transistor yang berdaya besar.</li><li>Cara paling mudah dan murah untuk mendapatkan T1 yang besar adalah untuk menggulung ulang trafo microwave lama. Trafo ini berdaya sekitar 1 kW dan sempurna. Cari di tempat servis TV/elektronik, cari yang paling besar. Makin besar microwave-nya, makin besar juga trafonya. Ambil trafonya dengan hati-hati, jangan memegang bagian tegangan tingginya, mungkin masih ada muatannya. Tes dulu, tapi biasanya masih baik koq. Kemudian, pisahkan bagian sekunder 2000 V tanpa merusak bagian primer. Gulung 12 lilitan kawat tembaga (berisolasi), buat center tap dan gulung 12 lilitan lagi. Besar diameter kawa tembaga tergantung berapa besar arus yang direncanakan akan lewat di situ. Kokohkan lilitan dengan isolasi. Jadi deh. Jangan lupa untuk menggunakan transistor berkapasitas arus besar untuk Q1 dan Q2. 2N3055 yang ditampilkan di sini hanya mampu menangani arus 15 A masing-masing.</li><li>Ingat, kalau mengoperasikan alat ini untuk menyuplai daya besar, arus yang ditarik dari baterai/aki juga besar, jangan samapi baterai/aki habis setrumnya.</li><li>Karena rangkaiana ini menghasilkan 120 V AC, Anda harus menggunakan sekering dan masukkan ke dalam casing/kotak.</li><li>Untuk C1 dan C1 HARUS dari jenis kapasitor tantalum. Kalau dari jenis elektrolitik yang biasa, akan panas dan bisa meledak. Nilainya harus 68 uF, jangan diganti.</li><li>Jika menggunakan komponen lain selain yang disebutkan di sini, mungkin saja rangkaian ini tidak bekerja.</li><li>Kalau Anda ingin membuat tegangan output 220/240 V AC, maka dibutuhkan trafo dengan gulungan primer 220/240 V. Gunakan terbalik, 220/240 V sebagai tegangan keluaran/output. Rangkaian yang lain boleh sama dengan yang menghasilkan 120 V, tapi ingat, arusnya di sisi 12 V menjadi 2 kali lipat.<br /></li></ol>adminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02551086822723681748noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3981291916429933540.post-24708283581670973762007-11-15T06:14:00.004+07:002009-02-08T18:24:08.119+07:00Automatic 12V Lead Acid Battery Charger<span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255); font-weight: bold;font-size:130%;" >Charger Aki 12 V Otomatis</span><br /><br />This charger will charge any 12V lead acid battery including flooded, gel and AGM. It is fully automatic and will charge at a rate up to about 4A until the battery voltage reaches a preset point at which it will switch to a very low current float charge.<br /><br />If the battery voltage drops again the charger will begin charging until the voltage once again reaches the cut off point. In this way it can be left connected to a battery indefinitely to maintain full charge without causing damage. An LED indicates when the battery is fully charged.<br /><br />R2 will have to be adjusted to set the proper finish charge voltage. Flooded and gel batteries are generally charged to 13.8V. If you are cycling the battery (AGM or gel) then 14.5V to 14.9V is generally recommended by battery manufacturers.<br /><br />To set up the charger, set the pot to midway, turn on the charger and then connect a battery to it's output. Monitor the charge with a voltmeter until the battery reaches the proper end voltage and then adjust the pot until the LED glows steadily. The charger has now been set. To charge multiple battery types you can mount the pot on the front of the case and have each position marked for the appropriate voltage.<br /><br />Q1 will need a heatsink. If the circuit is mounted in a case then a small fan might be necessary and can generally be powered right off the output of D1.<br /><br />T1 is a transformer with a primary voltage appropriate to your location (120V, 220V, etc.) and a secondary around 12V. Using a higher voltage secondary (16V-18V) will allow you to charge 16V batteries sometimes used in racing applications.<br /><br />If the circuit is powered off, the battery should be disconnected from it's output otherwise the circuit will drain the battery slowly.<br /><br /><br /><a style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0);" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFWrb7Jkz4EipKTVaVX_3IJVRAsVHkxOSQweQoeqxmta8JJxAasnnmKtoweNgdGKl7iKcZ9JWoLwVsNcXyIKkl-CckdQSN5k03jVoIc_wQspBPQ2eDFxsmRXqY7gkA106nbh6Mu0AHkJA/s1600-h/charger2-1.gif"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 377px; height: 213px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFWrb7Jkz4EipKTVaVX_3IJVRAsVHkxOSQweQoeqxmta8JJxAasnnmKtoweNgdGKl7iKcZ9JWoLwVsNcXyIKkl-CckdQSN5k03jVoIc_wQspBPQ2eDFxsmRXqY7gkA106nbh6Mu0AHkJA/s320/charger2-1.gif" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5132838875969380754" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Charger aki ini bisa digunakan untuk aki jenis apa saja. Rangkaian ini otomatis, mampu mengisi aki dengan arus 4 A hingga voltase aki mencapai titik tertentu. Pada titik ini arus pengisian menjadi sangat kecil.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Jika voltase aki berkurang lagi, rangkaian akan kembali mengisi aki hingga mencapai titik voltase tadi. Jadi, rangkaian bisa tetap disambungkan ke aki agar aki selalu dalam kondisi penuh tanpa harus takut merusak aki. Sebuah LED akan menyala untuk menandakan bahwa aki sudah penuh.</span><br /><br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold; color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">Komponennya</span><br /><br /> <table style="color: rgb(255, 255, 255);" border="0" cellspacing="3"><tbody><tr> <td style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);" bg=""><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Komponen</span></center></b></td> <td style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);" bg=""><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Jumlah.</span></center></b></td> <td style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);" bg=""><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Ukuran</span></center></b></td> <td style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);" bg=""><b><center><span style="font-family:Arial;">Pengganti</span></center></b></td> </tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>R1, R3</td><td>2</td><td>330 Ohm 1/4W Resistor</td><td><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>R2</td><td>1</td><td>100 Ohm 1/4W Pot</td><td><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>R4, R5, R7, R8</td><td>4</td><td>82 Ohm 2W Resistor</td><td><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>R6</td><td>1</td><td>100 Ohm 1/4W Resistor</td><td><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>R9</td><td>1</td><td>1K 1/4W Resistor</td><td><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>C1</td><td>1</td><td>220uF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor</td><td><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>D1</td><td>1</td><td>P600 Diode</td><td>Diode penyearah 50 V 5 A atau yang lebih besar lagi<br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>D2</td><td>1</td><td>1N4004 Diode</td><td>1N4002, 1N4007</td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>D3</td><td>1</td><td>5.6V Zener Diode</td><td><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>D4</td><td>1</td><td>LED (Merah, Hijau, atau Kuning)<br /></td><td><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>Q1</td><td>1</td><td>BT136 TRIAC</td><td><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>Q2</td><td>1</td><td>BRX49 SCR</td><td><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>T1</td><td>1</td><td>12V 4A Transformer</td><td>Lihat Catatan<br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>F1</td><td>1</td><td>3A Sekering</td><td><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>S1</td><td>1</td><td>SPST Switch, 120VAC 5A</td><td><br /></td></tr> <tr bgcolor="#072653"><td>Lain-lain</td><td>1</td><td>Kabel, PCB, Heatsink untuk U1, Casing, Jepit buaya untuk aki mobil, sekering dan rumah sekering<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Catatan:</span><br /><br /><ol style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);"><li><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">R2 harus diatur untuk menentukan batas voltase yang diinginkan. Aki basah biasanya di-charge dengan voltase 13,8 V, sedangkan aki kering dan semi kering 14,5 - 14,9 V. Cara mengesetnya, putar potensio R2 hingga berada di posisi tengah, hidupkan charger, pasang aki yang akan di-charge. Amati proses pengisian dengan voltmeter hingga voltase aki mencapai voltase yang diinginkan. Kemudian putar potensio R2 hingga LED menyala. Charger sudah siap digunakan sekarang. Untuk men-charge berbagai macam tipe aki, lakukan hal yang sama untuk tiap aki dan tandai posisi potensiometer R2 untuk tiap tipe aki.</span></li><li><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Q1 harus diberi heatsink. Jika rangkaian dikemas dalam casing, maka diperlukan fan kecil yang bisa dicatu dari keluaran D1.</span></li><li><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">T1 adalah transformator dengan voltase primer sesuai dengan voltase lingkungan kerja Anda, dan sekundernya sekitar 12V. Dengan voltase yang lebih tinggi (16 - 18V), Anda bisa men-charge aki dengan voltase 16V.</span></li><li><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Jika rangkaian dimatikan, aki harus dilepas dari rangkaian, jika tidak maka rangkaian akan menguras aki pelan-pelan.</span></li></ol><br />http://www.aaroncake.netadminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02551086822723681748noreply@blogger.com25tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3981291916429933540.post-839307865685944282007-11-10T01:34:00.006+07:002011-03-09T06:33:48.850+07:0012 V Car Battery Charger<span style="font-size: 130%;"><strong><span style="color: #3333ff;">Charger Aki Mobil 12 V</span></strong><br />
</span><br />
Most car battery chargers are simple devices that continuously charge the battery with a few amperes for the duration it is ON. If the charger is not switched OFF in time, the battery will overcharge, its electrolyte lost due to evaporation, and its plate-element will likely be destroyed.<br />
<br />
The circuit above will eliminate these problems by monitoring the battery's condition of charge through its retroactive control circuit by applying a high charge current until the battery is completely charged. When charging is complete, it turns on the red LED (LD2) and deactivates the charging circuit.<br />
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This circuit is drawn to charge 12V batteries ONLY. Certain emphasis should be taken when wiring up this circuit. They are the connections of the transformer to the circuit board, and those supplying current to the battery being charged. These connections should be made with cables having a large cross-sectional area to prevent voltage-drop and heat build-up when current flows through them. <b><br />
<br />
Adjustment</b><br />
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After assembling of the circuit, adjust TR1 to null value, power-up and make the following adjustments :<br />
<br />
<ol><li>Without connecting the battery check that the 2 LEDs are turned on.</li>
<li>Connect a car battery to the circuit and check that LD2 is OFF and a current (normally 2A to 4A) is flowing to the battery.</li>
<li>Adjust TR1 until LD2 turns ON and the charge current is cut.</li>
<li>Adjust TR1 to null value and charge the battery using the hydrometer technique (if you do not have or do not know how to use a hydrometer, then use a good condition battery and charge).</li>
</ol><br />
Carefully adjust TR1 so that LD2 begins to turn ON and the charge current falls to a few hundred milliamps (mA). If TR1 is set correctly then in the next round of charging you will noticed LD2 begin to flicker as the battery is being charged.<br />
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When battery is completely charged, LD2 turns ON completely.TR1 does not need further adjustment anymore. Q1 is connected in line with the battery and is fired by R3, R4 and LD2. The R2, C1, TR1 and D2 sense the voltage of the battery terminal and activate Q2 when the voltage of the battery terminal exceeds the value predetermined by TR1.<br />
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When an uncharged battery is connected, the terminal voltage is low. Under this circumstance, Q2 is turned OFF and Q1 is fired in each half cycle by R3, R4 and LD2.<br />
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The Q1 functions as a simple rectifier and charges the battery. If the battery terminal voltage is increased above the level that had been fixed by TR1, then Q2 shifts the control of Q1 gate. This deactivates Q1 and cuts off the current supply to the battery and turns LD2 ON indicating that the charge has been completed.<br />
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Q1 and bridge rectifier GR1 should be mounted on heatsinks to prevent overheating. M1 is a 5A DC ammeter to measure the charge current. Optionally a voltmeter can be connected in parallel with the battery, however it must have a high input resistance so as not to influence the measurement.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTdOhGV0VlCb1ezOJz5XMwaVewS6qldErTDArstQ9dyOaRLG-WpQJVRuxUnoi3hyphenhyphen9jquIc_TFuEojRARTRMZNgZ7yiNQcxDxTyX_tGbjWZi_LruQcSjnhVmRVP4pr3Fqkjmr0aJGABFog/s1600-h/Car_baterry_charger_12v.gif"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5130911712815361746" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTdOhGV0VlCb1ezOJz5XMwaVewS6qldErTDArstQ9dyOaRLG-WpQJVRuxUnoi3hyphenhyphen9jquIc_TFuEojRARTRMZNgZ7yiNQcxDxTyX_tGbjWZi_LruQcSjnhVmRVP4pr3Fqkjmr0aJGABFog/s320/Car_baterry_charger_12v.gif" style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center;" /></a><br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #202020; font-family: Arial, Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 13px; line-height: 20px;"></span></span><br />
<table border="0" style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><tbody style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;">
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">R1= 1Kohms</span></td><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">D1= 1N4001</span></td><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">T1= 220V/17V 4A Transformer</span></td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">R2= 1.2Kohms </span></td><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">D2= 6.8V 0.5W zener</span></td><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">LD1= Green LED</span></td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">R3= 470 ohms</span></td><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">TR1= 4.7Kohms trimmer</span></td><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">LD2= Red LED</span></td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">R4= 470 ohms</span></td><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Q1= BTY79 or similar 6A SCR </span></td><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">M1= 0-5A DC Ampere meter</span></td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">R5= 10Kohms</span></td><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">Q2= C106D SCR</span></td><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">S1= 10A D/P On-Off Switch</span></td></tr>
<tr style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">C1= 10uF 25V</span></td><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">GR1= 50V 6A Bridge Rectifier</span></td><td style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px; padding-bottom: 0px; padding-left: 0px; padding-right: 0px; padding-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: x-small;">F= 5A Fuse</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;"><br />
</span><br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">Kebanyakan alat pencharge aki merupakan rangkaian sederhana yang terus menerus mengisi aki selama rangkaian dihidupkan (ON). Jika aki sudah penuh dan rangkaian tidak dimatikan (OFF) maka akan terjadi overcharge, yang bisa menyebabkan penguapan cairan elektrolit dan merusak elemen-elemennya.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">Rangkaian di atas dapat mengatasi hal seperti itu dengan memonitor kondisi pengisian aki melalui rangkaian kontrol retroaktif yang mengalirkan arus besar ke aki hingga aki terisi penuh. Ketika aki sudah terisi penuh, LED LD2 akan menyala dan mematikan rangkaian pengisi.</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff; font-weight: bold;">Hal-hal yang perlu diperhatikan:</span><br />
<br />
<ul><li><span style="color: #3366ff;">Rangkaian ini hanya untuk mencharge aki 12 V</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #3366ff;">Semua kabel yang digunakan untuk menyambung komponen termasuk ke aki harus menggunakan kabel dengan kapasitas arus besar agar tidak ada tegangan jatuh atau rugi-rugi panas yang terjadi</span></li>
</ul><br />
<span style="color: #3366ff; font-weight: bold;">Pengaturan:</span><br />
<br />
<span style="color: #3366ff;">Setelah rangkaian siap, trimpot TR1 dibuat nol kemudian rangkaian disetel:</span><br />
<ul><li><span style="color: #3366ff;">Sebelum menyambung ke aki, pastikan kedua LED menyala dengan baik.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #3366ff;">Pasang aki, pastikan LED LD2 mati dan arus yang mengalir sebesar 2-4 A.</span></li>
<li><span style="color: #3366ff;">Atur trimpot TR1 hingga LED LD2 hidup dan arus berhenti mengalir.</span></li>
</ul>adminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02551086822723681748noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-3981291916429933540.post-28260089575395478692007-11-09T23:30:00.004+07:002009-02-08T18:31:07.559+07:00Simple Car Battery Charger<strong><span style="color: rgb(51, 51, 255);"><span style="font-size:130%;">Charger Aki Mobil Sederhana</span><br /></span></strong><br />by: Naveen P N<br /><br />This very simple circuit uses a transformer ,two diodes , a capacitor and an ammeter.<br />To charge a battery just connect the + and - terminals of the circuit to the corresponding terminals of the battery.<br />When the battery is not charged, the ammeter reading shows 1-3 amps.<br />When the battery is fully charged the ammeter reads Zero or nearly zero, after which the battery should be removed from the<br />charger.<br />The circuit is a full wave rectifier using 2 diodes for rectification. The capacitor is used for smoothing.<br />I think the circuit works fine without the capacitor since the battery itself acts a BIG capacitor. But when you are using the<br />circuit to supply 12V (as a battery eliminator) the capacitor needs to be present.<br />Care should be taken NOT to reverse the + and - terminals while connecting it to the battery.<br /><br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7X0xbMwitAU4TdDmXvGSXXxHSX-azGLyV3pN7cg-LCQYX5rI_yszqQjIurOYc5DgGHdEdSft52zv7rej5htwG_s3zHsvgFLKM59onQTkFkvkvbnxWfx5Q3EGaJ5YF0I7E3LSree8H2F4/s1600-h/Chager+aki+sederhana.gif"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5130887025343344322" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 331px; height: 247px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7X0xbMwitAU4TdDmXvGSXXxHSX-azGLyV3pN7cg-LCQYX5rI_yszqQjIurOYc5DgGHdEdSft52zv7rej5htwG_s3zHsvgFLKM59onQTkFkvkvbnxWfx5Q3EGaJ5YF0I7E3LSree8H2F4/s320/Chager+aki+sederhana.gif" border="0" height="280" width="380" /></a><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Charger/carjer/cas aki mobil sederhana ini hanya menggunakan sebuah transformator, kapasitor, ammeter, dua dioda.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Untuk mencharge aki cukup sambungkan terminal (+) dan (-) rangkaian ke terminal yang sesuai pada aki. Ketika aki belum penuh, pembacaan pada ammeter menunjukkan angka 1-3 A. Jika aki sudah penuh pembacaan ammeter mendekati angka 0 (nol). Pada saat ini, aki harus dicabut dari rangkaian.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Rangkaian yang digunakan ini adalah penyearah gelombang penuh dengan 2 dioda. Kapasitor yang digunakan hanya untuk menghaluskan keluaran, tapi rangkaian tetap akan berfungsi baik tanpa kapasitor karena aki itu sendiri merupakan kapasitor besar. Namun, bila rangkaian hendak digunakan sebagai power supply 12 V, kapasitor sebaiknya digunakan.</span><br /><br /><span style="color: rgb(51, 102, 255);">Hati-hati jangan sampai terbalik memasang terminal (+) dan (-) rangkaian ke aki.</span><br /><div></div>adminhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/02551086822723681748noreply@blogger.com12